Food, Travel, Design and the occassional wordiness

Travel: Manhattan: Foodie’s Family Weekend August 18, 2016

Filed under: travel — Kolika C @ 6:43 pm

Although I have never lived in New York City, so many things about the city feels like a familiar beacon. Sure I get the frazzles, thinking about finding parking and navigating the “interweb” of the metro or stepping over something disgusting; but… Maybe it’s the pace, the crowd, the nasty smell that reminds me of growing up in a bustling dirty metro. Or the ethnic food calls from every corner and the anonymity of a ‘real city’ tugs the gut and heart strings respectively. Or maybe because I’ve just been there way more times than I care to admit. The touristy things are checked off, the familiarity-bred-contempt is on its downward trajectory by now, no agendas to push, except a list of food things that are special to this crazy city alone.

This was my first trip back with Josh. And when I think why I’ve held back for all this time, I think it’s because the perceived ghastliness, the public opinion of Big Bad had somehow seeped into my maternal psyche. I mean I took him to Madrid, Dubai and Calcutta. So why not New York?

We made a few changes this time around. We drove. All the way. We parked where we could and wanted, we took it slow. I napped. (Gasp)


Nothing says city pride and urban love like public art. 

We still made lists to try out all those buzzfeed/ Conde Nast/ Travel magazine/ Pinterest-popular food innovations that were supposedly taking the city by storm. We didn’t worry about penny pinching, realizing you never really save much doing that. We stayed in the city, not in Long Island, not in Jersey City, not even in Queens. We got an Airbnb listing we liked on the Upper East Side and set up camp there. We spent a lot of time at Central Park and in open spaces. We were also ready to sit in crammed traffic and did a fair amount of that without cribbing. We went prepared to walk and to lie down on the grass, we went open-minded to live on pizza and ice cream and prepared enough to know which ones we wanted and what the backup options were. We went prepared to try Brooklyn again another time and focus only on the fun stuff IN the area we were staying in.

img_8790Who taught us to be this smart? Boston did. Yup I admit. Living in Chicago taught us many things, but living in Massholeland taught me 1) to expect and deal with nasty people and be ok if you’re the only nice person in the room 2) focus on not crossing the bridge (I’m talking about you Cambridge!) 3) to expect and deal with traffic and parking, smell and noise and the nuisance of urban chaos that we live and love.

So here are some snippets from our recent New York trip

-Eggloo @ china town for Hongkong style waffles stuffed with icecream and pokey sticks

-NY style bagels from H&M’s Upper East Side location

-Delish coffee and chocolate donuts from tiny Joe Coffee (Lexington Ave UES)

-Amazing awesome pizza and finger licking tiramisu from San Matteo Pizzeria e Cucina (writing this is making me so hungry!!)

img_8835-More amazing pizza from Margherita NYC

– drippy waffles from some cart in Central Park that everyone talks about but the name is escaping me right now

Crazy litchi deal from ChinatownūüėČ you didn’t see that coming did you? We were stuck in traffic after picking up pizza at Little Italy on our way back, what was I supposed to do? Pass on litchi? No thanks. I got down. They let me “haggle” with them in English while they laughed at me in Chinese (?) but I got my delicious fruits for my 4 hour road trip back home.img_8839

Overall this trip was such a fun fulfilling trip. I wish we did more full family trips like this, more often… And I don’t believe I said that in writing. Anyway I genuinely wish Josh would remember snippets of happy memories from this trip and we would get to repeat many more like this.


Just for fun: here’s a picture of my mom waiting with 2 eggloo sundaes in 2 hands while we wait for our ride (the guys) to circle back and pick us up since there was no parking availableimage11


Losing mind August 9, 2016

Filed under: Uncategorized — Kolika C @ 11:44 am

When things start to slip from your mind at 32, it is so far from pleasant that self deprecating humor just peed in its pants and left the building whimpering. Add that to the life of someone who used to pride on her wordsmithing and ability to thread words through logic and humor through profound tongue in cheek ‘gotcha’-s. And you got a big blank gaping losing game of Hangman.
Here it is. I can’t talk. I can no longer write.
Just like one day, I couldn’t sing. I can no long talk now.

So one day, what if the counting is gone too? And then the colors? The sharp angles dipped in gritty muddy waters?
Words are forming but not quite right. The memories are forming but to someone else. You know the feeling and you are saying a million things beating around the bush but you can’t really get to that really juicy red bright right berry sitting right there, but not quite, slightly out of your reach, slightly out of focus, within your intention but not quite.
What would you do? Where would you go? What do you want? Who do you love? What would you have done?
The push and pull and the deep deep prod.


Paper balls: Self-love + the Buy Nothing community December 15, 2015

Filed under: Uncategorized — Kolika C @ 9:59 pm

No one had offered and I sure as hell was not going to ask, expect or¬†depend on someone’s mood and flicker of sympathy. I could wallow (and I did) or I could act. I always act. Yes, I was a little lonely but no one was going to stop me from having the time of my life nor deter me from celebrating Josh.
So I made a list, designed the invitation and bammed out a huge baby shower to myself. I also cooked for over 30 people, laid out the table, handmade the decorations, planned and arranged the favors, entertained guests (including my husband’s work friends and boss) and baked, glazed and decorated my first ever pregnant belly cake, complete with a fondant foot mark.

In between, I gave in a little bit to my hormones and spazzed out. Sorry if any of you had to witness that. (If any body feels the need to shame me for that, just please measure up to the level of productivity and stress first)

I did that all at 36 weeks of my first pregnancy. Josh might have been born to a then-staying-at-home mom. But he was also born to an itching-to-get-things-done mom, go-getter (and if I can’t get it, I will make it) Mom.
But this story is not about the accomplishment or pride that swells my chest to match my once-pregnant belly, this post is about those handmade decorations and the blessings it carried through the community.
After the shower in November 2013, the decorations continued to grace our spare room, although the hall ones had come down. By the time we brought Josh home from the hospital, I had made more and hung them all over the nursery and the spare room which was now going to be his play zone.
He grew up watching those fragile balls of color. We played peekaboo with these “sunflowers”, ruffled the petals for the colicky 5 week old, swayed and danced right in that corner to get him to sleep… Apologies if most of our pics seem to be of the same ones.

Meanwhile, Buy Nothing happened.
In a few more months, was Josh’s Annoprashon. By June 2014 , I made more decorations- this time beyond the red, orange and yellow….in white and gold and silver to match the traditional Bengali and Indian attire and menu.

The earth spun faster than we could handle and soon it was Josh’s first birthday and we were having his little party in the same pompom room with the repurposed decorations. By now, Josh was calling them “papams”.




The next summer, after weeks of stress, we were selling our home and the decorations were lucky to be picked up by our neighbor, for her wedding in August of 2015. Here’s what she had to say:
“Our wedding was a second marriage for both of us and while we wanted to celebrate with friends and family, we wanted to keep it simple and inexpensive. We had a tiny budget for decorations so when I saw that one of my neighbors was offering out her hanging flower decorations I knew they’d be perfect. And unlike party decorations that people buy, use, and then toss, these decorations got to party! After they festively decorated the VFW hall we rented for our party, I passed them along to another neighbor who was hosting a birthday party for her one year old child. Where they went from there I do not know but I can imagine that they are now waiting to add some festivity to another party somewhere nearby!”
Quite the social butterlies, the paper balls were next picked up by another neighbor for her son’s first birthday.
After that wonderful party (complete with a candy bar!), they traveled out of state to Maine with a girl who did (what seemed to me like) a Buy-nothing themed wedding! Of that I have no picture, nor story.

These simple paper decorations signify a very personal time of grit for me, they symbolize self-love, the need to do things well no matter how small, to pull projects to completion even when no one is checking- the same things that motivate me to success in work, family and volunteering. Add to that optimizing resource utilization, staying rooted/ connected and building/ growing/ living with the community.
Don’t you see now how symbolic these traveling paper balls have been and how instrumental they have been in sharing cheer through the community?

Reduce, Reuse, Buy Nothing and most importantly Love yourself. It works.


How Buying Nothing saved us October 30, 2015

Filed under: Uncategorized — Kolika C @ 11:15 pm

The last time Buy Nothing was in the news, two things happened: our group (along with some others) got flooded with requests to join because everyone wanted to be the Frugalwoods (who are very inspiring by the way) and on the other hand, my beloved “Opinionated Cambridge” quickly polarized with one self-righteous group started an uproar of discussion criticizing the Frugalwoods… among other things, for graduating debt-free and owning real estate in Cambridge. Go figure.
I will just say that I have met the Frugalwoods and especially Mrs. F seems like a delightful person and their journey could be very inspirational to some people. But the biggest takeaway from her blog and lifestyle is “to each, her own”. So why copy and/or judge? Now to jump on to my own Buy Nothing story.

The local Buy Nothing group is my village. You know, sometimes, living in a country where you were not born in, is not easy. No matter how long you’ve lived there or what your legal status is or how connected you feel to the pulse of the socio-eco-political culture. If you don’t look like them, dress like them or go to their church, it is easy to feel a little ostracized from time to time- don’t let anyone tell you that doesn’t happen. You see a somewhat muted version of that in places where most people are transplants or where the natives are so used to seeing transplants, it bothers them that much less. That is only one of the reasons we embraced Cambridge and it, us. The mildly eccentric, thoroughly opinionated, deeply activist nature of super diverse Cambridge amused us, the dog-loving, Nature-enjoying, somewhat down-to-earth fraction of it attracted us and eventually the Buy Nothing group is what made it whole-. it turned my neighborhood into my community.

I was intrigued and inspired by Buy Nothing right from the name; and then some more because Liesl Clark and Rebecca Rockefeller (the women behind Trash Backwards) have time and again produced and implemented phenomenal, globally applicable, community-transforming ideas. Trash Backwards was so close to my heart, lifestyle and for a brief period, livelihood too.
Finally my grownup world was recognizing my familial culture, embracing the principles I had grown up with. The Buy Nothing Project might be a newer initiative, but minimalist, less greedy, frugal living is age old; and I grew up with parents (and grandparents) who taught me to value what I have, ask less and never waste. Living a life of gratitude is my everyday motto. Please don’t get me wrong, I did not grow up in deprivation, in fact, I had everything I needed and then some. I grew up in a family that could afford wishes and wants. I know people who’ve had delicious treats like career connections, real estate and generous child care support handed to them on a golden platter, my gifts might have been modest in comparison to theirs, but what I got, more than sufficed.

Buy Nothing did more for me than reinforce my frugal mindset. Yes, both my son and husband got not-bought gifts this year. (My son got a “Where is baby’s birthday gift?” book that he still loves and reads, 10 months after his 1st birthday and my husband got a semi-functional telescope, which kept him excited for a while, which was totally worth it)
Buy Nothing gave me friends and a safety net. When we were being harassed by someone enough to have to report to the cops and consider moving, a couple Buy Nothing members I felt comfortable sharing these incidents with, offered me solace and acceptance. They offered prayers and hugs and the option to temporarily move in with them (we didn’t), so we were safe from the harassment.
When we were staging our home for photos, we needed a place to store some of the clutter (home – clutter = museum). Storage pods were not a possibility because the narrow city street we lived on was undergoing a long construction project. Our Buy Nothing neighbors opened up their basements to host the odd things and kid’s toys.

As we needed to upgrade appliances, our new fridge was scheduled to arrive the day of our first open house, DURING the open house….and we were unable to reschedule it. So where were we to put the meals that we cooked in advance so the house wouldn’t steam up during the weekend-long open house? Buy Nothing to the rescue again. A neighbor who was up late saw my frantic post, lent me her ice boxes at midnight and saved the deliciousness that nourished us and baby for the next few days.

One neighbor helped me make cuttings from the tree I couldn’t take with me. Someone else offered to watch my bunnies, when our temporary apartment threw a surprise at us last minute and said they wouldn’t allow them.
Several offered to watch my son while I packed. A couple offered to cook us meals. (We didn’t ask for any of that and didn’t take them either but the gesture, the thought itself warmed us!)
A few dropped off items for me that I had no time or means to go and pick up, some picked up items on their way from me to donation drives- errands I was stretched too thin for. Two neighbors hosted my plants.
One dropped off flour and cocoa on my porch because it was my birthday and I had already packed up all my baking goods. (If you’re reading this, you already know you’re more than just a Buy Nothing member.)

Yes we have friends and neighbors outside of Buy Nothing, who’ve helped us a tremendous amount and I definitely would not be able to survive this time without my mother’s support. But this group needs to be called out with special accolades, because they owed me nothing, they were not not friends, coworkers, classmates, they were “just” neighbors, distant ones too, some I had met only a couple times, most only virtually (online). They knew nothing about me but my scanty, curt public Facebook view. And I truly have no words big enough to capture the generosity they showered on us.

Besides the harassment and the subsequent angst of readying our home just to let it go, the emotional tear of selling our first home, the exhaustion of moving with a toddler + 3 pets while starting a new job and the desperation of leaving the nest I had my baby in, we were dealing with logistical roadblocks in every direction, which included the sudden loss of a close family member. Among other things that meant, single parenting + fire fighting while my husband attended to his family half the globe away. Wherever it could go wrong, it had. Push-backs and stressors were ample from every conceivable direction.
However, now that a lot of it is simmering down, it feels like it turned out ok. Maybe not all of it, but some of it. Bottom line- we got through it. Almost. A lot of sleepless nights and dead-on-the-feet afternoons, but a lot of trust restored in humanity in the process.

Even before the crazy months started, the generosity had been diverse, sometimes surprising and always heartwarming…from hand-knit hats, to bread-making classes. They were banding together for donation drives and helping each other move mountains, survive crises and change the world for each other, on a daily basis. These neighbors gave more than their things, they offered rides, shared home brews, swapped recipes, lent tools, went on mom dates (sometimes without kids), shared interests, connected on commonalities and became friends. (Trust me, when someone offers to bring you chocolate after hearing you’re on your couch struggling through PMS, she is your friend, not just a Buy Nothing member. Yes, you- thank you!)

Buy Nothing enriched us as a community. Not only did we get the opportunity to connect with like-minded people but this little project about a gift economy had a much wider impact- It made generosity a habit.

By making it easy to give, it also made it easier to ask…. especially, by taking away need-based choosing of recipients. Asking, for so many of us, can be a huge cultural and/or psychological burden; sometimes being tainted with the notion of “need”, it gets even harder.

Buy Nothing made it easier to give up things too. It made us less clingy about our stuff and not just what we want to offload, but stuff we often hold on to for that future what-if-we-need-it-again scenario. Sound ludicrous? Imagine this: I’m temporarily quitting coffee (hypothetically speaking, of course) and I have no use for my espresso machine anymore, so I can gift it to someone who can use it now, rather than holding on to it for that uncertain future, when I might want coffee again. I know if and when I do, the community will have a machine that will brew me the perfect cup. Buy Nothing offered a sense of security in the form of a community, something we tend to want from our belongings. And with that sense of trust, a tiny population slowly but surely, is moving towards less holding on to stuff and more on to people around them. Buy Nothing made trusting cool again. Of course, this will help lower the burden on landfills somewhat, of course it will save money if you didn’t have to buy it, of course it will lengthen the life of goods. But more importantly, it makes “giving” a second nature, an action that doesn’t need deliberate thoughts. Giving begets giving, generosity breeds itself.

And that is how Buy Nothing saved us.


Home September 22, 2015

Filed under: Uncategorized — Kolika C @ 2:18 pm

Free to follow my passions and purse my dreams and go wherever I please and keep flying… Truth? I have been chased out more than I have been chasing anything. Others have it worse, of course. Others running from being hurt, rights impeached, robbed of choice and options and things, forced to act against their will.

Free will.And my heart breaks for them.

See you’d have to stay and suffer the consequences. But me? I can always leave. I never stay. So I never reap benefits, I never have to see it through. My flowers never bear fruits. My trees don’t shade me. Too many fresh starts and potted plants.

You’d have obligations. You have strings that pull you. I do too, just that those strings don’t cocoon me. I never go home. I never miss home. I never let myself miss home.
I have always prided myself on the fact that I am not bound anywhere. I can quit any job, move to any city, leave anyone- anyone but baby. I have outwardly prided myself on my ability to let go, painlessly. But the truth is I never do. And the truth is it hurts like hell.

I give away things easily but I don’t throw anything away.

I make the quickest decisions but rarely are they unplanned. I’ve prided myself on being a professional traveler, a global citizen but the truth is I never travel, because I don’t have a home. I simply float.

You might romanticize my way of life and I hope you do. You might even envy the supposed flexibility, but sometimes I yearn for that sense of forever. The sense of a go-to. Maybe I wouldn’t mind a little binding, a little bonding.

I form new bonds fast, I assimilate effortlessly. But I have no old friends left. I have no traditions to fall back on. I don’t have a village. I cling to my languages, but words evade me. Mostly because I have no one left who’d listen. You see, the last of my 3 childhood angels died last Saturday.

Also, I am moving again. Mostly, because I can.

What could have been my own, never owned me. So leaving was left as the only easy option- maybe even the only option. Every. Single. Time.

See, I tried to root myself. I nested, I birthed but now baby and all, I have to go. Again. Go find another seat to warm.
Is it still an empty nest when you’re the one leaving it?
It’s not leaving that hurts, it’s knowing you’ll have to do it all over again, where you’re going next. My home will never be my home. It is someone else’s investment.
My will is never free.
Chasing and escaping make up my circle.

I hope that cycle breaks for baby.
For him and him- let peace coexist with the want for more, higher, better. Let "here" and "now" trump "elsewhere", "anytime". Let him always have a home to go to. Let me always be their home.


Design: baby shoe organizer July 5, 2015

Filed under: Uncategorized — Kolika C @ 8:59 am

30 minutes to a easy, cute IKEA hack. No you don’t have to be a power tool yielding DIY-er. (Although it doesn’t hurt) you just have to believe, every item has the potential to become almost anything else it wants to.

A spice rack is never just a spice rack.  
With some scotch tape and paint, it’s a blank canvas.

¬†¬†It’s a place to add embellishments- you know your bugs and butterflies, or cars and dinosaurs, or beads and pompous.
And most importantly, it’s a way to organize your entryway. ¬†Especially with those tiny shoes that are always scattered and lost. Can I just take a moment here and say, no matter ¬†what I make and how I design anything- nothing, absolutely nothing, are as cute as baby shoes.¬†¬†
How do you organize your baby shoes?


Travel: Alaska- From Fireweed to Forest Fires June 21, 2015

Those of you, who’ve been following Glass Wheels Travels for a while, know I am a Mama’s girl. And my Mom and I travel together, often and much. This time, after a hiatus of couple years, Mom-&-me came back as Baby-Mama-&-Grandma. Most of you also have caught on to the fact that my Mama, who I will refer to Grandma hereon, LOVES mountains. So Alaska was an obvious choice given we were staying domestic this year.

We had been planning on an Alaska trip for a while and after some changes and back and forth from May to August and back, we finally decided on June. In fact, I am writing today within 4 days of getting back, still heady with jet lag.

We had just gotten back from a long California trip, all of us tired of long car-rides by then; J faring the worst of all, loathing his  car-seat. For days he would shake his hand and head vehemently just at the sight of the car door open…reminded me of Brownie’s road trips.

IMG_6889So anyway, tickets were booked and we packed a healthy dose of optimism and set out super early one June morning. After 2 uneventful flights and lots of compliments about a well-behaved baby, we reached Anchorage.

 One word- meh. We were hugely underwhelmed by Anchorage. A city cradled by mountains and lapped at by water evokes expectations and they were just plain not met. We tried them all- Kincaid Park, Point Worwonzof etc. and I have to say Pinterest and Tripadvisor have never really let me down this bad. Even worse- the food scene was almost non-existent. Anchorage made Buffalo look happening. Yes, sad.


Still packing some of that remnant optimism, we set out, the next day, to go to Girdwood. You’ll notice in Anchorage travel tips and lists that they include all these areas- TurnAgain Arm, Girdwood, Portage etc. although I am not sure if these are really part of Anchorage or just potential day trips. Anyway, by the time Seward Highway reached Potter’s Marsh about 16 miles out of the city, both the view and our outlook had started changing. Potter’s Marsh was a lovely place – paved board walk stretched into the wide open marsh land. Fewer birds than we expected but such nice ambiance. I could while away here for hours. My little bird-spotting assistant (aka Baby Josh) sat in his Ergo, pointing “bird, bird!”, every time a gull flew past him. I saw a couple of bald eagles courting and clicked away at an elegant swallow who posed for us patiently.

IMG_4251Then the grey clouds started giving in and fat droplets threatened to take over the mist that was already soaking us. (And of course, I was traveling without rain gear and had only 1 fleece sweat ugh!) So we hurried back to  the car again and headed towards Girdwood. The winding road, hugging the Cook Inlet was fun and I kept patting myself in the back for upgrading our rental car to a Subaru Forrester. I have driven flimsy sedans on crazy National Parks roads before and let me just say, that is not fun. So really at $15 extra a day, the upgrade was totally worth it. I digress.

By then, the wind had picked up and believe it or not it was blowing so hard, it was difficult to get out of the car for more than a few seconds. It felt like we were going to fly away (and not the metaphorical way you’d expect Alaskan natural beauty to sweep you off your feet). We widened our stance and bent our bodies to steady against the wind and withstand the cold and lashing rain, to take in the views and get some pictures. Yes the pics are lopsided and hazy but effective, because, even now when I look at them, I feel the sting of the wind and rain.

TurnAgain Arm | Glass Wheels Travels

TurnAgain Arm | Glass Wheels Travels

I won’t say that the road was not scenic. It wasn’t as heavenly as widely acclaimed, but yes, it was scenic and made for a nice drive, once I added a ittle imagination and extrapolation on how nicer it would be on a clear day with blue skies. We trudged slowly up to Alaska Wildlife Center near Portage.IMG_6921 I have so much respect for everything they are doing over there to help rehabilitate the hurt and orphaned animals and I don’t mind the entrance fee etc. going to such a good cause. I wish it was dry and sunnier, so we could walk around and take better pictures… maybe even interact a bit more too. But instead, we took the shuttle. The driver/ guide was fantastic, she was not only personable, but also knowledgeable and descriptive without being patronizing. 

The Brown Bear pictured here was a special attraction. Going in the entrance personnel said “you’ll see all the animals but maybe not the bear because they are on some 20-30 acres and you never know where they’ll be”. But here he was, people-watching, just by the fence…Looking at all the interesting 2-legged creatures, in all kinds of 4 wheeled vehicles with cameras pointing at him. Overall we had a great 45 minutes ride in the shuttle bus. I knew going in this was no zoo or the San Diego Safari but I left feeling a little empty and more than a little dissatisfied. I couldn’t help but feel a little cheated… I heard Alaska was gorgeous from all my friends, of varying tastes and exposures. The prices of everything in Alaska sure lived up to it’s supposed-heavenly beauty. This was going to be an expensive trip and this was an awful lot of nothing to justify that kind of money. Frankly, the weather was playing havoc on my psyche. It was a miserable, cold, wet day- a good day to buy a new jacket- a bad day for that jacket to give way, even before I left the shop.

Brown Bear, Brown Bear what do you see?

Trail in Girdwood AK | Glass Wheels Travels

Trail in Girdwood AK | Glass Wheels Travels

Seething and drenched we reached Girdwood and was welcomed warmly in to a homey B&B with big rooms. After nursing and calming J (I think I was projecting my gloom on him a bit too), we decided to rest, for the remainder of the evening and “take it slow”…given a cold, wet day in Girdwood didn’t leave us any other options. We went to sleep with the hope that  it would clear up a little the next day.

And it did, long enough for us to go on a short trail before breakfast. We kept it short, because there was homemade bread waiting for us at “home” for breakfast. I saw some wildlife there, but unfortunately don’t have pictures to show. I saw a mouse, not moose. Yes, that’s not a typo, as much as I’d like it to be…

Anyway, after breakfast, we packed J into the car and headed for Seward…a 4 hour round trip for a 2 hour visit to the SeaLife Center; after reading the reviews and weighing the pros and cons in bad weather we decided on passing on the 6 or 8 hour long glacier cruises from Seward. I wasn’t going to go with J anyway but I think even for Grandma, standing in the frigid cold (most say there aren’t enough seats) next to motion-sick cotravellers’ vomit, to watch ice break and fall into water and a knowledge that there’s wildlife that she can’t see without a binocular (which we didn’t have), eating semi edible food on a ship…didn’t sound very appealing. I’m sorry guys, but icecalving just does not fit my bill of cool. Maybe that’s where my misplaced notion of Alaskan beauty is.

TurnAgain Arm | Glass Wheels Travels

Seward Highway | Glass Wheels Travels

Our road to Seward was beautiful! So much nicer than ANC-Girdwood! Or was it the peekabooing Sun? The sky still wasn’t blue but so many shades of green, reflected on randomly scattered lakes. Of course the Mom in me was happy that Josh was so happy seeing the fish and especially the birds. Check out the amazing work the Alaska SeaLife Center does with rehab as well. Yes, no colorful tropical fish and this wasn’t the Chicago or Baltimore aquariums, but still totally worth the trip to the SeaLife Center. This is what traveling with kids is made of and I love it!

Alaska SeaLife Center | Glass Wheels Travels

Alaska SeaLife Center | Glass Wheels Travels

J & I both found likeness of Brownie in the seals’ faces and Josh went far enough to keep calling them “Babum”- his name for Brownie. I was missing my son#1. But this was going to  be a good day. I was almost determined to make it count. When was the last time I was so conflicted/ determined on vacation?

After a couple hours of fun at the SeaLife Center and procuring a new fleece lined rain jacket (that worked!), we headed home to Girdwood.

Tram, Alyeska, Girdwood | Glass Wheels Travels

Tram, Alyeska, Girdwood | Glass Wheels Travels

Since we missed seeing glaciers, we thought going to the Seven Glaciers restaurant at the Alyeska Resort next door could make up for it. Boy were we wrong. The idea of dining up among 7 hanging glaciers is enchanting. Being seated in an empty restaurant with reservation, near the elevator shaft with almost no view + rude service that would put Massachusetts to shame + shamefully mediocre food was not enchanting at all. We did enjoy the 7 minute trip up the tram and the round house was a nice viewpoint… again imagining how much nicer this would be under clear skies helped. We met a very nice person (Josh?) who took us down on our trip in the tram. For a resort in high season, the whole place was dismally empty…maybe they’ve scared away all the customers and like us they would all go to taste Alaskan icecream next!

Round House, Alyeska, Girdwood | Glass Wheels Travels

Round House, Alyeska, Girdwood | Glass Wheels Travels

Yes apparently there’s a ice cream company in AK, where food scientists take the local wild flower- Fireweed for it’s color and it’s honey and formulate Fireweed Honey icecream. It was floral, sweet and refreshing and it came from our B&B host’s ice cream shop. Our last night in Girdwood was truly relaxing, as we watched the light thin out over the hills- hills we could now see from both our windows now that the clouds had lifted.

View on a sunny day from our B&B, GIrdwood | Glass Wheels Travels

View on a sunny day from our B&B, GIrdwood | Glass Wheels Travels

IMG_4460The next day we set out to go north to Talkeetna. We stopped in Anchorage to fill up our car to the gills with snacks and water and a couple small toys for Josh. This time around the road (to ANC) felt shorter of course but not that much prettier. The road from Anchorage to Talkeetna was sad! We saw more abandoned cars and run down dismal communities than anything else. Hardly 2-3 gas stations, no rest stops, no scenic stops. Nothing…I kept expecting to make a turn and see a mountain or a moose but of course Mt. Denali was socked up in clouds and nothing else was worth seeing. IMG_4509Eventually we reached our B&B in Talkeetna. The last quarter miles was unpaved and gravel and just when our expectations plummeted, we were greeted by Andi at the Talkeetna Chalet B&B, showed around her beautiful house, fueled with coffee and shown to our room. We then made it another 3 miles to where the road (Talkeetna Spur road) ends at the river…at quaint and quirky Downtown Talkeetna. Like I mentioned in my Alaskan Communities page, Talkeetna is where everyone comes to play.IMG_4446 There are quite a few food options and historic buildings (but not your Old Cambridge style that we’re used to). The mayor of this town is a cat! Here in Alaska for the first time, IMG_4448I saw young families with little kids and people with dogs, playing in the park of leash. In my mind that signals “happy community” almost instantly. The whole place was like out of a hippie vacation, with stores as old (looking) as Nagley’s and as crazy sounding at Mexican Moose (we bought a wooden car for J from here and 3 packets of roasted warm nuts- yummy!)  IMG_4511IMG_4489IMG_4492 IMG_4507

Rain came again and we retired to a bowl of soup and reindeer sausage at the Roadhouse. The next day, Grandma went on a flight seeing expedition to the top of Mt. Denali (!) with K2 aviation and Josh and I went to walk around the town and to the river. Then early afternoon after a bad experience with mediocre pizza from Mountaintop, thinking aloud how cute this town was, we set forth for Denali National Park. Little did we know this nagging feeling of imcompleteness would soon be quenched when we would be forced to return here again!

Our next stop for the day was Healy and the sky still hadn’t cleared all the way but the mountains were peeking in and out of the clouds. We stopped admist a hoard of chattering Asian tourists at the South viewpoint and I soon left without taking many pictures only to be stopped intermittently by traffic and waiting for pilot cars to take us through the narrow single lane highways. There were stretches where again I was thankful I had the 4WD Forrester. The North view point was quieter and felt more scenic. IMG_4564 And finally 5 full hours later, when I was almost ready to burst into tears myself- exhausted and still calculating if this trip is worth it, we reached our B&B in Healy. That turned out to be less of a B&B but what ever it was, the view was phenomenal. Do you see the rainbow? The photo deosn’t do it justice. AND that was only the first rainbow we had seen- it was 6PM. We were so tired, we set our alarms for 12:15AM and then 3:15AM for sunset and sunrise respectively, swearing all we’re going to do here was lie down next to the window/ deck, “bask” in the midnight sun and enjoy the scenery. And glorious it was, the midnight sun and the 12:25AM sunset. I have never seen a more beautiful, a more pink, a more heavenly view in my life. (Well not really, I did see a beautiful pink baby boy I gave birth to- the best thing I’d ever seen) In my almost 32 years of existence this was the northernmost I have traveled and the longest day I’d seen. I don’t know why the other things are so talked about and this isn’t one of them? As much as I love them, I’ve seen enough alpine forests and snowclad mountains, I’ve been to nicer National Parks and stayed in luxury lodgings, I have had my share of (glaciers) ice on water too…but this- this was ephemeral. How is this not a Wonder of the World? How is this not in brochures for traveling to Alaska? This is finally what made everything worth it.


Almost worth not even going to the National Park. But we did. Trudging along the construction-ridden, bumpy, unpaved road, we entered the park. NPS always interests me, but here it seemed to be more educational than recreational. Nonetheless we went to some trails and came back less than impressed. Almost 2 miles of hikes with a napping baby on my back- it isn’t easy traveling with kids, but it’s fun. And you do live to talk about it. My SLR camera died on the hike and I almost immediately knew we would encounter wildlife that evening…and after getting back to the hotel that night, we saw a mama moose with her baby at the lake (Otto Lake) and later a bear (which really I didn’t see very well).

The next day was going to be the longest drive, so we started early and tried to go as fast as possible within reasonable speed- you know, no photos, fewer stops. We only lasted about 10 miles before we wanted to stop for photos! Of course this was the clearest day so far. The sky was egregiously blue, the Sun hot on our heads, the snow clad Mt. Foraker, Mt. Hunter and Mt. Denali shining bright. We were going to hit a 90 degree that day. The cold wet windy day when we couldn’t get out of our cars seemed like a distant nightmare.


Driving towards Sockeye Fire | Glass Wheels Travels

We stopped to fill gas at the junction of Talkeetna spur road, exclaiming at the beautiful Mt. Denali in our rear view mirror and how nice it would have been had it been clear on our journey there. Then a sideways gland revealed Smokey Bear saying high danger of fire. I’ve seen that sign before but never an actual fire and I really didn’t give it much thought.

In no more than 5 minutes later, I thought the clouds looked different and I told Grandma, maybe there’s a fire ahead. Within minutes were were stuck on the road behind what we later learned was a 2 mile long train of cars. People had their chairs out camping in the Sun, hoping the road will open in a couple hours. We also learned there were no back-roads to get to Anchorage, something we are so used to in the Lower 48. You know that saying there’s always a way. Well there wasn’t. And with Josh sleeping in the car, I somehow didn’t feel right to wait those 2 hours. I quickly called our B&B reservation in Anchorage saying the road was closed with a 200 acre fire (later grew to over 7500 acres); she was reluctant to return our deposit, but eventually when we learned the road was not going to open for that whole night and in fact, it was indefinitely closed, she was gracious enough not to charge us.

I called and left a message for Andi at Talkeetna Chalet, Talkeetna being the closest place we could stay for the night, and then again called a couple other B&Bs who were completely booked. Turns out one of Andi’s guests was also stuck because of the fire, coming in from Anchorage, so she could in fact accommodate us. The upside to all this was we were going to spend one extra night in Talkeetna over boring Anchorage.

The downside was infinite. Very close to Andi’s B&B we had an encounter with a very creepy man with a combination of finger flicking and waving and smiling– gave me super heebie-jeebies. This wasn’t my urban neighborhood where I knew the roads and there were people I could call out to, this was a cabin in the woods, down the hill and away from the main house, alone with Grandma and Baby. Baby with a raging fever. This was a town with minimal to zero police presence, all of whom were probably focused on fighting the fire and relocating residents. This was a town where I saw 2 people openly carrying guns in holsters casually in their jeans and sun dresses, this was a town I later learned where there was a Militia conference that weekend! I have no opinions against them, I just want to say how far and unfamiliar that culture is to me. This was a place where I was essentially alone to fend for myself and 2 people I love most in the world. And I couldn’t find the fire extinguisher in the wooden cabin, 30 miles from where a forest fire by then had taken up 7500 acres. I had LTE connection on my AT&T, so I obsessively scanned the internet for news on the fire, tweeted CNN and FOX for their lack of updates and followed the Alaska Forestry page for updates, which were scant, to say the least. The rest of the world, said my husband and friends on Facebook, had no idea what was going on here. Houses were smoking, trees were flaming- the fate of acres of land in the hands of whimsical wind. Oh and that creep could show up at any time at the window. And my son was not feeling well at all. I just wanted us to be safe, I wanted to get to Anchorage, board our plane and reach Boston Logan airport. I wanted us to be home, with Brownie and A, away from this strange land. I wanted us to be in the heart center of rude, uncaring Massholeland and smack next to uncivilized neighbors- THAT was my civilization.

I was also amazingly eternally grateful to Andi for taking us in, to the other B&B owner for not charging us and to luck and my quick decision-making that we turned around in time…apparently Andi got 20 calls right after asking for a place to stay in. Other commuters had to go to shelters. I was glad we got a beautiful cabin, a cozy bed, a hot shower, coffee and the premise of a hearty breakfast the next morning.

With that we survived that night and after breakfast, we left for Anchorage. Smoke was everywhere, a feverish baby in the car, and charred skeletons of spruce stood for 22 miles along the Parks Highway near Willow, AK.

We eventually reached Anchorage, with half a day to spare. At over 90 degrees and few places that were comfortable, open and inviting, we headed to the airport early. United Airways personnel who knew full well (and expressed as much) our flight was going to be delayed (but it didn’t show on the displays yet) refused to get us in on an earlier flight unless we paid for it. Irritated and anxious about making our connection, we roamed ANC for a little bit. Ted Stevens ANC airport is a gem for a shabby town like Anchorage. Ample food options, nice artwork, people who were in awe of Alaskan beauty but wanted out of the state and best of all a nursery,  where we could rest, change and play for 7 hours until our flight…7 hours theoretically was actually 9 hrs, which delayed our flight for the connection. . Thankfully again, our connection in ORD was late. Finally we were headed home. And we were home, 26.5 hours from when we had left our B&B in Talkeetna.


“No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel until he comes home and rests his head on his old, familiar pillow.”


TurnAgain Arm | Glass Wheels Travels

TurnAgain Arm | Glass Wheels Travels

If interested you can find our full itinerary and recommendations for planning here. And on the topic of planning, here are some cool places to stay and play in. Check out all our pics on my Flickr album


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